Upscale soul food is the premise: wings, savory greens, Hoppin’ John, catfish and the other requisites, including the redeye gravy-smothered pork chop. Shrimp comes either barbecued or fried, and there’s a notable Louisiana-style gumbo. Period R&B, including the place’s namesake tune, and vintage Life covers featuring esteemed African-Americans, ensure that no roots are forgotten here, however uptown it may be.
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