The rustic setting of brick and old wood with strings of vintage light bulbs overhead has a romantic feeling at Luigi Cutraro's new restaurant in Royal Oak. It might have been just “trattoria” but the wood-burning oven tucked into one corner and inherited from the previous regime made pizza almost obligatory. And it's very good — with toppings of grilled eggplant, prosciutto di Parma, arugula, and capers. So are the pastas, especially pappardelle con Marsala e funghi (wide ribbons in a light mushroom and Marsala sauce), and such main courses as the classic saltimbocca alla Romana (veal, sage, and prosciutto). Desserts follow the Italian theme.