There still are some glimpses of old Detroit, and this is one of the places to look. Except for the hand-held computers in use by the waiters, little has changed since the doors first opened more than 100 years ago. As for the food, it's Traditional (with a capital T) Italian. Veal saltimbocca is by-the-book, with prosciutto and sage. Get a side order of gnocchi in red sauce with a splash of cream. This place has been doing it right for a long, long time. L & D Mon.-Sat.