A new audience is discovering this Midtown Detroit classic, which dates to 1948. Linen- covered tables, framed paintings on the wood-paneled walls, expert waiters in black tie, and tableside preparation survive here. Fullcourse Italian dinners still start with an antipasto tray and continue through soup, salad, pasta, and entree. Small plates? Not a chance. This is old-school dining. L & D daily.