Perhaps it's the intimacy of the place, with its mere 38 seats. Even though the tables are so close together, the room has an appealing energy. The well-prepared food, on a menu that's the right length, includes eight appetizers, a half-dozen pasta dishes and five main plates, notable among which are tournedos di vitello, medallions of veal filet in a fresh mushroom sauce. Café Nini is named for Alicia (Nini) Barbieri, the third generation of the Da Edoardo restaurant family. L Mon.-Fri. D nightly.